The DollSuperStore.com Informational Guide

  1. Terminology
  2. Type of collectible Dolls
  3. Top 10 Common mistakes to new collectors
  4. A few ways to ruin your dolls
  5. Caring for your Collectible

Terminology

A

ALL-BISQUE: Usually quite small (under 8") that is made entirely of bisque parts. Most all-bisque dolls are from the late 1800s and early 1900s, to about 1930. Kestner and Simon and Halbig made many of these dolls; many other makers of generally lesser quality also did. Most of these dolls were made in Germany, but some very early exquisite dolls were made in France, and many crudely made later dolls were made in Japan.

APPLIED EARS: Ears applied to a doll AFTER the mold for the head has been poured (The ears are molded separately then "applied" to the doll's head before the head is put in the kiln).

B

BALL JOINTED: Common method of jointing composition bodies; uses little wood "balls" at joints for movement.

BÉBÉ: Term commonly used to describe French dolls representing small children.

BISQUE: Unglazed porcelain; usually molded into shape then baked in high temperatures in a "kiln" to form doll heads and doll body parts. Most German and French dolls from the late 1800s and very early 1900s had heads made of bisque.

BREVETÉ: The French word for "patented." Sometimes it may be abbreviated to Bte. Or B.T.E.; can be found stamped on antique dolls.

BOOK VALUE: The value of your doll in a price guide; NOT the value you can expect when you sell your doll either on the internet or to a dealer. Also, please note that a Book Value is generally for a doll in excellent condition; dolls of lesser condition are valued accordingly.

C

COMPOSITION: A mixture of wood pulp, sawdust, glue and similar items which is used to make bodies for antique dolls and also for entire dolls (head and body) during this century until the advent of hard plastic dolls.

CELLULOID: The first plastic used to make dolls; highly flammable and usually quite thin. Used for doll making from approximately the 1920s to the 1940s (generally until Hard Plastic dolls were introduced)

CHINA: Glazed porcelain used for making dolls heads, very popular in the mid 1800s.

CLOSED MOUTH: Doll sculpted so that the mouth is closed with no teeth showing. These are prized by collectors of bisque antique dolls, who prefer the closed mouth dolls to the open mouth dolls.

CHARACTER DOLL: Doll made to look like a living child or adult (and not stylized like earlier dolls from the 1800s); term popularized in the beginning of the 1900s.

CRAZING: Little criss-cross cracks that sometimes form, with age, over the surface of a composition or china doll. Most composition dolls found today have crazing to some degree.

D

DEP: Often found on French and German dolls; an abbreviation for the French and German words for "patent."

DOLLHOUSE DOLL: Doll generally scaled 1 inch to 1 foot for use in dollhouses (although the earliest dollhouse dolls do not hold to these proportions and are generally larger).

DOMED HEAD: Also known as a "Belton Head" this is a head that is made with a closed, or domed top (as opposed to an open head; see below).

E

EXCELLENT CONDITION: Doll that is not mint but has no major flaws. Perhaps dress is not perfect or original, there can be minor flaws.

F

FLANGE NECK: A doll head where the edge of the neck flares out for attachment to a cloth doll body.

FLIRTY EYES: Doll eyes that can move from side to side.

FASHION DOLL: A French or German lady doll made, generally, with a bisque head, and dressed in fashions of the day (much like our modern Fashion Dolls). Doll's body can be made of kid, cloth, wood, or other materials.

G

GES: Abbreviation for "Gesch" which is the German word for patent.

GOOGLY EYES: These dolls have big, round, side-glancing eyes. This was very popular on dolls from 1910s through the 1920s.

GUSSETED JOINT: Type of joint sewn into leather and cloth bodies that can allow the joint to bend.

H

HARD PLASTIC: Type of durable, very hard plastic used to make dolls in the 1940s and 1950s.

HAIRLINE: Type of crack in bisque dolls that can often only be seen upon close examination, usually with the assistance of a light. Hairlines CAN also be seen with the naked eye; not considered as bad a flaw as a crack that has been repaired or one that has bisque missing.

HTF: Common abbreviation at online auctions and doll lists; means 'Hard to Find."

I

INTAGLIO EYES: Eyes that are molded into the head that are meant to be painted.

INSET EYES: Eyes that are set into the doll's head that do not move; common setting for eyes in dolls from the 1800s and earlier.

INCISED: Marks that are "incised," are actually scratched into the bisque on a dolls head or shoulder plate.

K

KID: Common term for soft leather used to make French and German fashion doll bodies.

M

MARK OR MARKINGS: Letters and numbers and symbols placed by the manufacturer of a doll on the doll's head or body which are invaluable for identifying dolls today; it is often impossible to identify an antique or vintage doll without a mark. However, please note that not all marks have been identified today.

MOHAIR: Hair of the Angora goat, used for antique doll wigs. Very desirable; very soft and natural looking wigs are made of mohair.

MOLDED EARS: Ears that are molded right in with the doll's head, as opposed to "Applied Ears" (see above).

MOLD NUMBER: See "Markings: above; the mold number designates the mold that was used to make the doll's head and can be an invaluable part of the markings for doll identification.

O

OPEN MOUTH: Mouth molded open to, generally, reveal teeth inside. Can also reveal tongues on bisque baby dolls.

OPEN/CLOSED MOUTH: Mouth molded to appear open, but which does not actually have an opening in the bisque.

OPEN HEAD: Doll head with the crown cut out so that eyes can be inserted; crown opening is usually covered with a "pate" so that the wig can be put on the doll.

P

PARIAN: Doll made of unglazed bisque that is also finished without a wash of color; generally bisque appears pure white.

PATE: Covers the crown hole in an open-head doll; can be made of cardboard, cork, or other materials.

PEG WOODEN: Early simple wooden doll made with peg joints.

PORTRAIT DOLL: Term used for dolls late 1800s and early 1900s bisque dolls representing a person.

POOR CONDITION: Doll is a mess; major flaws; maybe doll is salvageable but that is even a long shot!

POUPEÉ: Term used for French fashion dolls; also means "doll" in French.

PROVENANCE: An antique doll with a provenance is a lucky find; a provenance usually consists of historical information regarding the original and subsequent owners of the doll.

PRESENTATION BOX: Original presentation of antique dolls, doll furniture, clothing and accessories (sometimes in combination) as found in the original retail stores.

R

REPRODUCTION: Dolls made to look like antique bisque, china and pariah dolls. NOT fakes; most reproduction artists are meticulous about marking their dolls as reproductions, BUT be on the lookout for unsuspecting or unscrupulous people who DO try to sell a reproduction as an original.

S

SHOULDER HEAD: Doll's head and shoulders molded together in one piece; usually attached to a kid or cloth body.

SHOULDER PLATE: The shoulder portion of a shoulder head, OR the bisque shoulders used with a swivel head.

SLEEP EYES: Dolls eyes that are open when the doll is upright, but close when the doll is put down.

SOCKET HEAD: Doll's head is molded with a neck that is placed into the doll's body with a cup and saucer like arrangement.

SWIVEL HEAD: A socket head using separate shoulder plates.

V

VINYL: Plastic developed in the late 1940s that is the dominant type of plastic used to make dolls since the 1960s; can be hard or soft.

VOICE BOX: Mechanism in a dolls body that allows the doll to make some sound such as "mama."

Type of collectible Dolls

Throughout centuries, doll makers have created dolls using everything from papier-mâché to metal. Choosing the right doll for you, is largely a matter of deciding which type of material is most appealing to you.

Cloth Dolls: Many Cloth dolls have flat cloth faces with hand-painted features, wigs of yarn and hand made clothes; such as Raggedy Ann and Andy.

Composition Dolls: Composition dolls are made of a mixture of compounds such as sawdust, paper, glue etc. Such examples are: Betty Dolls and Princess Elizabeth dolls.

Bisque Dolls: Bisque dolls are tinted, unglazed porcelain. Color is added prior to firing, to give a warm, rich color to the collectible doll.

Hard Plastic Dolls: these dolls are made of flesh-toned painted hard plastic. These became hugely popular between 1940 and 1950. They tend to have sharper, more defined features.

Porcelain Dolls: These dolls are made by firing pure clay. The translucence of the material makes for elegant dolls.

Vinyl Dolls: Most mass-produced dolls are vinyl dolls made of soft plastic.

Mistakes for New Collectors to Avoid

Welcome to the fascinating world of doll collecting! We've all been there--brand new to collecting, so many dolls to collect, and so many ways to collect. Actually, there is no right or wrong way to collect dolls. Collecting is supposed to be fun, so follow your inner collecting muse and enjoy yourself.

That said...seasoned collectors have been through all of the stages of collecting, and they've made every collecting mistake that can be made. So...if you're reading this, and would like to know some of the typical mistakes of beginning doll collectors, here are the Top 10 Mistakes of Doll Collecting Newbie's.

  1. Wanting It All
    If you're new to collecting, you're probably like a kid in a candy store--there are so many dolls, and they're all asking you to take them home! Dolls at the local doll store, dolls at shows, dolls on eBay--they all seem to have your name on them. Whatever you do, don't give in to all of your doll urges. Before you know it, you'll end up broke and out of space--before you even know what you're really doing! So, slow down, and realize you can't (and shouldn't!) have it all in the beginning of your collecting life.
  2. Collecting Alone
    In today's modern Internet collecting world, its easy to collect in a vacuum, buying and selling dolls through eBay, and through mail order. Well...I can't think of a more boring way to collect than alone. Having friends who also collect can not only be fun, but informative. If you have a local doll club, join it (or start your own!). If you don't have a local doll club, you can find one on the Internet, or you can frequent a busy doll Forum, where doll collectors discuss everything doll. You can also find doll collecting friends at doll shows and conventions. Trust me, its nice to know some people who don't think your doll collecting is just an eccentric pastime.
  3. Collecting solely on eBay
    If you only collect dolls through eBay, you're missing SO much. You'll never fall in love with and discover new types of dolls unless you see them in person--at doll shows, doll shops, doll auctions and doll conventions. Sure, eBay is fun and convenient, but there is nothing like actually seeing dolls in person and/or handling them. A picture on eBay can only teach you so much about a doll.....seeing it in person will teach you ten times as much.
  4. Buying Cheap
    There is nothing wrong with buying dolls on a budget. But....if you buy 5 $10 dolls, you could have afforded one $50 doll. If you buy 5 fifty dollar dolls, you could have afforded one $250 doll. And so on. I know it's hard to not go for volume when you're starting out as a collector, but if you control the volume and save your funds for slightly better dolls, you'll end up with a better and more valuable collection in the long run. And, if you DO find yourself with many dolls of lesser-value in the long run, consider "trading up" where you sell earlier doll acquisitions to acquire better ones later on.
  5. Failing to Focus Your Collection
    This is a bit like wanting it all, but different (trust me, you can be really, really focused--ONLY collecting one type of doll and then want every doll from that certain collection, right away). If you just collect dolls in general, and you don't focus, you may end up with a broad but somewhat boring collection. Not too mention that if you collect too broadly, you may simply end up with many lower or medium-level dolls, never really getting to rarer or unusual ones. Oh...and, if you don't focus, you can say goodbye to your display space before you know it. Focusing your collection is smart--you can learn one area of dolls in depth, which will help you make smarter purchases, and help you put together a more cohesive collection. Oh....and there is no rule that says you can't focus on a different area once you're sufficiently finished with the first!
  6. Narrowing Your Focus TOO Much
    If you DO put total doll blinders on, and only collect, a certain brand or type of doll, you'll never learn anything about any other type of doll. For all you know, you're true "soul mate" in dolls might a totally different doll. But, if you don't at least notice what else is out there, you'll never know. Even if you focus on one area of collecting, continue to read books and magazine articles about other dolls, and don't completely ignore other dolls at doll shows and shops.
  7. Keeping Your Dolls in Boxes
    Obviously, this doesn't apply to most antique doll collectors. But...especially for collectors of modern dolls, don't just leave your dolls in boxes for "investment" sake. If you're only interested in investing, you should buy some real estate. Play with your dolls--debox, fold, spindle and mutilate. Redress them. Play with their hair. Enjoy your collection! Nothing is as sad as a collector with 200 dolls--all in boxes, either in a case or stored in a closet, and not one single doll to play with!
  8. Being an Antique Doll (Or Modern Doll) Snob
    I can't tell you how often modern doll collectors look suspiciously at antique doll collectors and vice-versa. Don't be a doll snob--even if you don't want to collect in the other universe of dolls, you should still respect it and even explore it as your collecting continues.
  9. Living and Breathing by Price Guides
    Price Guides are essential to collecting, you'll need to have a few to help guide your collecting and to help you appraise your collection. But...don't become a slave to your price guides. If you see a truly mint, all-original vintage or antique doll, that doll can be priceless--one of a kind, that you might literally never see again. So....don't decide not to buy the doll just because it's being sold over "book value." Conversely, don't jump at dolls you see that are way under book value--sure, they might be a good bargain, but the doll market is volatile right now, and the market might have changed since the book was written. Or...the doll is being offered way under book value because it has serious flaws in condition or otherwise. So, when you use price guides, start with the price guide for reference, and then think it through further.

Top ways to ruin your new doll

A lot of times you want to bring your new doll home and take it right out of the box or play with it, it is very important to preserve your doll and protect it. Here are a few ways that you can ruin your dolls.

  1. Display your dolls in a bright, sunny window
    Leave your doll in a nice sunny window is great for displays, after all the sun beaming on the pretty colors just brightens up the day for passer bys. Nothing is more damaging to your doll than bright, hot incandescent and florescent light. Bright light will fade these colors on most outfits and will fade and damage various doll materials, especially vinyl.
  2. Store your dolls in a roomy attic or basement
    Once you have a lot of dolls in your collection storage space can become an issue. Please be advised that storing in an attic or basement that is not temperature controlled is not a good idea. Attics and basements are subject to extreme hot and cold temperatures which can ruin composition, plastic and other doll materials very quickly.
  3. Never Dusting your Doll
    It's tempting to decorate your home with all your dolls, placing them on chairs or mantles for all to see. But if you leave your dolls out and never dust them, than the dust can dull the colors of the outfit, it can set into the wigs and it will make cleaning the dolls clothes necessary, which will ruin the value of the doll; if you choose to display your dolls than dust them often.
  4. Throw away their dingy clothes and buy them new ones
    Lots of times you may want to buy your antique doll a new updated outfit and getting rid of that old dirty or torn one, keep in mind with a little mending and cleaning, the old outfit still holds it beauty and value.
  5. Letting your pets tamper with your dolls!
    Don't let your pets have access to the rooms where you maintain your dolls. Cats love the mohair wigs and think it's a great toy and dogs have been known to enjoy a doll shoe or two. Or even the body itself! Either keep your dolls and pets separate or keep your dolls in an enclosed cabinet.
  6. Lay you antique bisque dolls on their back for storage
    If you lay your dolls on their back for storage, their glass eyes can fall out of their settings and crack. It's even possible to crack the head of the doll. This is because the eyes held in with harden plaster and the weight of the eyes and plaster can make them drop out of their sockets when stored back down. Instead, store your doll face down.
  7. Keeping your dolls in plastic containers
    Keeping your dolls in plastic containers may keep them away from dust, pets or any other problem. However, keeping them in these containers can cause a problem of its own, air tight plastic can hold even the smallest amount of moisture which over time can create mold or mildew on the dolls. This is bad, mold and mildew can be impossible to remove from certain plastics that the dolls are made from. If you must use plastic containers for storage, be sure to poke holes in to the containers.

Caring for your Collectible

  1. Never change the original hair or clothes, keep the doll in her box in a dry place. If you wash her hair or clothing, the value of the doll is lowered.
  2. When you first purchase a doll save all the packaging, inserts and tags, if you ever decide to sell your doll, this will enhance the value. If any tape is on the doll, remove, this will cause discoloration to the fabric over time.
  3. When storing your doll for an extended period of time, place a layer of acid free tissue between the doll and her clothing. This will prevent "bleeding" of the clothes to her body.
  4. Always clean your doll with soft cloth dipped in distilled water. Soap residue will cause discoloration.
  5. To clean a cloth dolls body use cornstarch or talcum powder. Never use water, rub the cornstarch into the fabric. Leave for about 8 hours and gently brush off.
  6. Always store your vinyl dolls in a cool place, as heat darkens vinyl. Should you have any marks or pencil on your doll wrap her in a towel with only those marks visible. Apply vegetable oil to the dirt and leave the doll in the sun for 5 hours. After several days of this, the mark will vanish. Never use chlorine bleach or products that contain chlorine on a vinyl or plastic doll. This will destroy the "skin" coating of your doll.